Maculan 2010 Brentino, Veneto

Veneto wine review

A Veneto wine review

A Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend from Northeastern Italy with a great deal of style. On the nose, classic notes of tobacco and graphite interplay with fresh plum. The texture is velvet and medium bodied with soft and integrated tannins. Vanilla and toasted cinnamon start to open up on the mid-palate with a touch of sweetness. On the finish, burnt cedar and black currants dominate. A very pretty bottle of wine that plays above its price-point.

Buena Vista 2006 Pinot Noir Ramal Road, Carneros

Carneros wine review

Carneros wine review

Grown at the very bottom of Carneros, which also happens to be the very top of San Pablo Bay (let that be a lesson in geography for you)

I can imagine some Hollywood exec driving around LA in a  silver Bentley Continental. He’s in the back seat, drinking this wine from the bottle. He’s probably just leaving a meeting with Drea De Matteo and Michael Imperioli, pitching a “Sopranos in Space” musical. The meeting went well.

While most of us will never have that moment to celebrate (if that would be the correct word) in our lives, this is definitely an opulent and showy style of Pinot Noir that is a better fit as a showcase than with a meal.

Which is to say, this isn’t a typical Pinot Noir. Full bodied with dense dark fruit and french roast coffee notes. Silky texture unfolds with sweet cherry and cardamon notes that turns toward cola and licorice. The finish pushes forward with milk chocolate and a refreshing edge of minerality and perfume.

 

This wine was a Chairman Selection in the PLCB (Pennsylvania) stores at the time of writing.

Terre da Vino 2009 “La Casa in Collina” Barbaresco

Lange wine review

Lange wine review

I am always looking for good values for Nebbiolo. The high quality $20 bottle is a rare and wonderful thing.  Typically that takes me to the larger Langhe region, plus Gattinara and Roero. The well-known regions of Barolo and Barbareso are rarely under $3o, and when they do dip below that price point  they  are almost never worth drinking.

This is the exception that proves the rule. Linear tannins that build out a complex structure of bitter herbs and tar. The plushness of sweet cherry and black fruit come open up quickly. Flavors and scents of toast and licorice are flowed by a salinity that finishes with burnt earth and   spices.

 

Craiglee 2007 Shiraz, Victoria

Australian wine review

Australian wine review

The cooler climate of Victoria often delivers Shiraz with more complexity and a lighter framework than other South Australian regions.  This bottle is a wonderful example of that style.

Its dark violet stains the glass purple,  and it’s aromas offer up charcoal smoke and white pepper along with dark blueberry and cherry. On the palate, the attack is fatty and fruity, with a hint of anise. On the midpalate, the wine lightens turning fresh and light with fresh strawberry and cinnamon dominating. On the finish, the richness re-asserts itself with great tannic strength and a splash of cherry.

 This wine is a Chairman’s Special in the PLCB (Pennsylvania) at the time of this review. 

De Martino 2010 Carmenere Legado Reserva, Maipo

Chilean wine review

Chilean wine review

A vanguard in the organic wine movement, De Martino has been farming organically since 1997, and has been carbon neutral for the last season. Despite that, the winery has been making great wines for the past few years.

The winery is making interesting wines, and the style has been changing over the past decade. Gone are the huge oaky beasts that they were churning out. Now, it’s more likely to see new clay amphorae than new oak barrels in their winery.

As a critic, it’s hard to get a handle on a wine when the winery is making drastic changes year to year, but it seems like they have finally settled on a house style in 2010.

The fruit does have a transparency that is unlike most Chilean wines, with fresh bing cherries and dark fruit at the forefront. Cola and chocolate notes come in mid-palate with a striking note of sandalwood. Good finish with fig and mocha notes.

Robert Hall Winery 2007 Rhone de Robles

Paso Robles Wine Review

Wine School of Philadelphia

One of my favorite trends in Paso Robles is the embrace of these Rhone-style wines. I am especially pleased to see Robert Hall embracing the style. I met Robert at a wine festival I organized about six years ago. A wonderful and generous man, we talked at length about his winery. At that point, he was still focused on Cabernet and Merlot, the kingpins of Bordeaux. His turn toward the Rhone varietals is very successful, and this is one to seek out.

A blend of Grenache and Syrah, with a tiny bit of Cinsault and Counoise, this wine has a deep crimson hue. Aromas of cigar box and espresso layered over blackberries. The wine is round on the palate with cedar smoke and crushed mineral. Dark fruit takes over and then finishes with nutmeg and cinnamon.

 

Wine Video of the Week: Gallo Pink Chablis

“It was a white wine, as white as the crystals in her crown…. it was called chablis. So great was her praise that is blushed pink… now this legendary wine is recreated for you by Ernest and Julio Gallo… the smart wine for young modern tastes”

Priceless!

Reserve des Vignerons 2010 Saumur Champigny

Loire Red WineLoire valley wine review

Minimalistic, fresh and pretty; this Loire Valley red is a true gem. Fresh and bright red fruit are tied to accents of dried leaves and a forest breeziness.  Mineral notes come forward in the mid-palate with elements of iron and granite and oyster shell. The finish comes with fresh violets and toasted clove spices. A touch of tapenade and brine finish off this light bodied beauty.

 

One of the best food wines I have tasted in the past few months. I would suggest using this anywhere you typically would employ a Pinot Noir. The lengthened growing season in 2010 really worked to dispel the typical bell pepper notes that often mar this bottling.

This is a PLCB Chairmans Selection in Pennsylvania at the time of this review. 

Wine Video of the Week: Paso Wine Man

Only in Paso Robles. Irreverent and funny, this video hits the perfect balance. Many wine advertisements inadvertently regress into  kitsch, but this never falls into that trap.   It really offers up some of the excitement that is SLO, with tongue firmly placed in cheek. Nicely done!

Rutherglen Estates 2008 Burgoyne’s Block

Australian Wine Review

Australia Wine Review

Deeply hued with aromas of fresh berries and currants. Secondary scents of caramelized fat and savory herbs are amazing. Rich tannin that softens in the glass but keeps a firm structure. Fresh plum balances out the chewy tannins with more berry notes on the mid-palate. The finish of lavender and smoke with a final layer of sweet fruit. A blend of Mourvèdre, Shiraz and Grenache.

Francois Lurton 2009 El Albar Barricas

Spanish Wine Review

Spanish Wine Review

One of the finest values in fine wines I have seen in a few years. From the Toro region of Spain, this is a remarkable bottle for both it’s impressive weight and finesse. Painted with lush vanilla and oak-driven caramel, this red holds an aggressive of tannins. sandalwood and lavender in the mid-palate with mocha notes and a full bodied richness. The finish turns smoky, earthy and floral. Very impressive.

Wine Video of the Week: Classic Riunite commercial.

Ah, it was the early 80′s and Riunite had the most awesome commercials on TV. I was but a wee little tot, but I imagined how awesome it must be to have Ruinite (on Ice, so Nice!) with a hamburger while skiing. Someday, dear readers, someday.

Domaine Cordier 2011 St Veran “en Faux”

White Burgundy Wine Review

White Burgundy Wine Review

Cordier is known as a modern winemaker in a region –Burgundy– that more often than not values tradition. One of his signatures is a lavish use of new oak, which shows up on the nose of this Chardonnay. Lean and layered, this is a lovely wine and a very good value. Crushed stones, quince, and oak flavors are followed by enticing notes of fresh tree fruit. Lovely.

Etude 2010 Chardonnay Estate Carneros

A Chardonnay Review

Chardonnay Wine Review

A high styled wine that is intended as a luxury bottling. It upholds it’s mission, just not at the high price the winery intended (we can thank Pennsylvania’s LCB for that). This is a wine that embodies Walt Whitman’s line,“every moment of light and dark is a miracle.” It is high toned like a shiny tongue warrior in a final drag race against the Higgs particle.

If that’s a bit too meta for you, then consider this: a beautiful Chardonnay without even a hint of butter. Instead, layers of minerality, lemongrass, mango, and quince in a dense but vibrant package. Lovely and well worth twice the money.