South Philly Vatican

The Pub On Passyunk East, or P.O.P.E. as it’s known to the locals is not your average watering hole. It looks like a dingy English pub and smells like one, too. Lots of exposed brick and wood surround the interior, with a beautiful U-shaped bar around the front room. If you go through the archways and stained glass, you’ll find long rows of booths and free standing tables in the back room.

Always busy, whether it’s a Tuesday or Saturday night, what makes this place so great is the ownership and barkeeps. Dennis Hewlett, lifetime South Philadelphian, always wanted to open a place representative of what he believed the bar scene should be. And all he did in the process was transform an entire neighborhood and make South Philly a destination for hardcore beer drinkers.

Hewlett’s vision was to never settle for being a Miller Lite bar, as he set the standard so much higher by bringing in the absolute best of the best in brews to Passyunk Avenue. Barminders Matt, Derek, and Potsie are somewhat local legends as well, always quick with a coaster and a cold one. The prices are by far the best in town.

So if you happen by the hottest street in all of South Philly, pay respects and drop by the place that was there first and kiss the ring. If not, say 10 “Hail Mary’s” and we’ll call it even.

The Pub On Passyunk East is located on Dickinson St. and E. Passyunk Ave.

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Kegs And Legs

Alberto Vargas made a name for himself in the American art scene by illustrating and painting pin-up girls.

What this has to do with a 22 tap system featuring all American craft beers and delicious pub food is beyond me, but who cares? The place is the bees knees.

Anyone in the business knows that some corners are just a death knell for success and guaranteed failure for any new restaurant. 10th and Spruce in the Gayborhood has been one of those Bermuda Triangles. Leave it to George Anni and Evan Turney to change all the mojo in one broad brush stroke and create a hip spot that’s always 3 deep at the bar with an hour wait for food all weekend.

Varga’s fantastic bar-managerial staff of Ian DiFabio and Rich Colli keep the taps rotating and the beer fresh. They have committed to only serve the best of the red, white, and blue, believing you don’t need to leave our shores to get all the best of the very best in brew.

People murmured they wouldn’t be able to keep going through 22 taps of different beers, but Turney and Co. emphatically shut the doubters up.

“We do 2 orders every week”, says Di Fabio. “We can”t stay ahead of the demand”.

And while you’re drinking this managerie of malt and hops, don’t forget about the ridiculously great food, including the very best macaroni and cheese in all of Philadelphia. Bold statement. Bold bar.

Varga Bar is located at 10th and Spruce Sts.

Jean-Claude Thevenet et Fils 2006 St.-Veran Clos de l’Ermitage Cuvee Vieilles Vignes

A distinctive nose of wet riverbank stones with just the slightest citrus lift leads the way to a surprisingly generous mid-palate rich with lemon oil. That stoniness and minerality comes back on the finish, bringing the wine back to almost exactly where it began. This would be a solid value at even $10 more. Drink now.

I Heart Charbono: Summers 2005 Charbono, Napa Valley (CA)

Yes, the mercury has risen, the muggies are threatening, and the food most of us crave has likely become lighter. So why extol the virtues of a wine of only moderate acidity, low tannin, and pronounced, round fruit?

Because it’s good. Really good. And that’s why you drink wine in the first place, right?

I was recently reminded of why I love this grape so much upon opening a bottle of the Summers 2005 Charbono from California’s Napa Valley. This is a wine of gorgeous lush berry fruit, a texture more akin to the velvet of something with far more bottle age than one with only three years on it, and a subtle sense of mushroomy earth underlying it all that gives it a sense of depth and demands another sip. And another. And then another.

And why not? It’s summertime, after all.

Hidden Italy: Frank’s Top Picks

1. Morgex et De La Salle “Vini  Estremi,” 2005, Valle D’Aosta 
2. Cascina Chicco Roero Arneis 2005, Piemonte
3. Caldora Pecorino, 2005, Abruzzo
4. Cormons Pignolo, 2004, Colli Orientali, Friuli
5. Frecciarossa Oltrepo Pavese Uva Rara, 2004, Piemonte
6. Santa Maddelena Lagrein “Perl,” 2004, Alto Adige
7. Mancinelli Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, 2003, Le Marche
8. Sandro Fay Valtellina Superiore ”Sassella,” 2003, Lombardia
9. Banfi “Rosa Regale” Brachetto d’Acqui, 2005, Piemonte