Tenute Sella & Mosca 2006 Alghero “Tanca Farra”

Sardinian wine review

Sardinian wine revew

A serious wine from one of the most under-recognized wine regions in Italy. The 2006 Tanca Farra is a 50/50 blend of  Cabernet Sauvignon and Cannonau, and aged for three years in large oak puncheons and barrels.

On the nose, the layers of herbs is remarkable. Cannonau is an ancient version of Grenache, so there is an expectation of some garrigue notes. This, however, takes it to another level. Bay leaf, lavender, fresh basil, and eucalyptus all come together into a dynamic and complex scent.

On the palate, a spicy vanilla sweetness and cherry-cola take hold at first. Following up is a splash of bright red fruit and a touch of reduction. The finish is layered with chalk and stone over fresh herbs and baking spices.

A wonderful wine. Highly recommended.

A PLCB Chairman’s Selection at the time of the review. 

Tenuta La Marchesa 2011 “Gold Label” Gavi

Northeastern Italy wine review

Northeastern Italy wine review

The wine region of Gavi has had its ups and downs. Quality hit  a significant low in the nineteen-nineties with the push toward mass-production.  We are now seeing a new high, after a decades-long push to rehabilitate the region’s reputation.

Fresh and appealing, the wine pops with white flavors: peaches and flowers, to be precise. It is deftly balanced, offering not just the brighness of acid, but it’s opposite as well: fleshy and creamy  ripeness.

Fresh pear and white pepper are found in the long finish, along with spicy barrel notes.

Maculan 2010 Brentino, Veneto

Veneto wine review

A Veneto wine review

A Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend from Northeastern Italy with a great deal of style. On the nose, classic notes of tobacco and graphite interplay with fresh plum. The texture is velvet and medium bodied with soft and integrated tannins. Vanilla and toasted cinnamon start to open up on the mid-palate with a touch of sweetness. On the finish, burnt cedar and black currants dominate. A very pretty bottle of wine that plays above its price-point.

Buena Vista 2006 Pinot Noir Ramal Road, Carneros

Carneros wine review

Carneros wine review

Grown at the very bottom of Carneros, which also happens to be the very top of San Pablo Bay (let that be a lesson in geography for you)

I can imagine some Hollywood exec driving around LA in a  silver Bentley Continental. He’s in the back seat, drinking this wine from the bottle. He’s probably just leaving a meeting with Drea De Matteo and Michael Imperioli, pitching a “Sopranos in Space” musical. The meeting went well.

While most of us will never have that moment to celebrate (if that would be the correct word) in our lives, this is definitely an opulent and showy style of Pinot Noir that is a better fit as a showcase than with a meal.

Which is to say, this isn’t a typical Pinot Noir. Full bodied with dense dark fruit and french roast coffee notes. Silky texture unfolds with sweet cherry and cardamon notes that turns toward cola and licorice. The finish pushes forward with milk chocolate and a refreshing edge of minerality and perfume.

 

This wine was a Chairman Selection in the PLCB (Pennsylvania) stores at the time of writing.

Terre da Vino 2009 “La Casa in Collina” Barbaresco

Lange wine review

Lange wine review

I am always looking for good values for Nebbiolo. The high quality $20 bottle is a rare and wonderful thing.  Typically that takes me to the larger Langhe region, plus Gattinara and Roero. The well-known regions of Barolo and Barbareso are rarely under $3o, and when they do dip below that price point  they  are almost never worth drinking.

This is the exception that proves the rule. Linear tannins that build out a complex structure of bitter herbs and tar. The plushness of sweet cherry and black fruit come open up quickly. Flavors and scents of toast and licorice are flowed by a salinity that finishes with burnt earth and   spices.