Left Hand Brewing Co. Milk Stout Nitro

Posted by Mike Madaio on Mar 14, 2013 in Beer Reviews | 0 comments

Last St. Paddy’s Day, I implored you to forgo Guinness and other mass-produced Irish imports for local brews that pack more freshness and flavor. One year on, my opinion hasn’t changed, and our local beer scene continues to improve and evolve. My first choice, in fact, on everyone’s favorite drinking holiday would surely be Victory’s Donnybrook Stout.

Donnybrook, however, like many other Irish-style stouts, is one of those creamy, distinctive beers that is only available on nitro tap (meaning that nitrogen is used instead of carbon dioxide in the carbonation process). Because nitrogen is largely insoluble in liquid, beers made in this method tend to have a deceptively thick mouthfeel and offer that distinctive cascade up the glass after being poured.

Guinness, of course, as well as several other internationally-known nitrogenated beers, has long made its signature stout available in a can with a widget at the bottom that approximates the effect of the nitro tap. For those of us who want to enjoy these wonderful beers at home, these macro-brewer widget cans have been our only option.

Until Left Hand Brewing Company’s Milk Stout Nitro, that is. These guys, see, have somehow figured out how to bottle nitrogenated beer. With no widget. Once opening the bottle, you just turn it completely upside down (over a glass!) and let it vigorously and completely pour out. If done correctly, a classic nitro cascade with be only moments away… as will the taste of a freaking delicious stout. This baby is fresh, and smooth, and chocolatey. Bottom line, this is gulping beer.

I must, of course, point out that Left Hand is not a local brewery (it’s in Denver, CO). It is, however, an American brewery, much closer to Philly than Dublin, and heck, they’re even calling this beer “America’s Stout”. Bold words? Not behind this deliciousness.

Rogue Voodoo Doughnut Bacon Maple Ale

Posted by Mike Madaio on Jan 23, 2013 in Beer Reviews | 0 comments

It’s hard to not be intrigued by Rogue’s Voodoo Doughnut Bacon Maple Ale. This is a beer that’s based on a doughnut flavor. It’s brewed with actual bacon, as well as pure maple syrup, and sold in a ludicrous pink bottle. Though clearly a novelty to some extent, any beer lover would be hard-pressed not to have it on their to-do list.

But is it any good?

After trying it, I’m still not 100% sure. It did feature one of the more intense, intoxicating aromas I’ve ever experienced from a beer. As it sat on the table, over a foot away, I was enveloped in a cloud of fresh maple syrup, intense and satisfying. It was everything I could do to not run for the pancake mix. Sweet, rich notes of maple took the lead on the palate as well, followed by a quick burst of pork fat, and that’s when it got a little weird. And smoky. (The beer’s made with cherrywood, beechwood and hickory-smoked malts.) Of course bacon and smoke go hand in hand, but this smoke was different than smoked meat; it was more like a charcoal pit – initially pleasant, but eventually bitter and overwhelming.

In the end, the Bacon Maple Ale was about what I expected. Interesting to try, fun but odd, and not something to drink a lot of. I’d recommend grabbing a 750ml bottle and a few friends and giving it a run. Don’t forget the pancakes.

Rotisseur: A Philadelphia Restaurant Review

Posted by Mike Madaio on Nov 19, 2012 in Restaurant Reviews | 0 comments

Typically when one encounters a place with this MO — a hole-in-the-wall, with a staple main ingredient (in this case rotisserie chicken, but also barbecue, fried chicken, burgers, etc.) — the restaurant tends to make incredible chicken/whatever, and the sides tend to be limp and uninspiring. At Rotisseur, it was the total opposite. Well, not exactly. The chicken was good – it just wasn’t great, which one would expect at a place that serves mostly chicken. The sides, however, border on great.

Two veggies that can, especially when served in this type of assembly line-style environment, can be soggy and lifeless, were delicious. Brussels sprouts – the seasonal side on offer – were pan-fried to a slightly crispy, firm texture. The roasted potatoes were also crisp, yet creamy. Croutons on top of the mac & cheese were kinda, well, cheesy (sorry), but they added a nice crunch to the proceedings. Lastly, the warm farro salad (an off-menu item, it seems) tasted just like Thanksgiving stuffing.

Perhaps the most exciting thing about Rotisseur is the value. A thigh & leg meal with two sides will run you $8.5, and it’s a good sized portion. (A breast/wing meal is a dollar more – but why would you pay more for a less-flavorful option?) Of course, you’re not paying for a whole lot other than the food. There’s counter service, and there are just a few small tables inside the tiny space. (There are also a few tables outside for warm weather). It’s BYOB, and they offer an interesting selection of Mexican sodas.

In addition, Rotisseur has some intriguing bánh mì on the menu, which branch out from the chicken-only theme. Of particular interest is the duck confit, served with togarashi dressing (chili sauce), pickled red cabbage, pickled daikon, cilantro, cucumber, duck confit, lime, scallion and fresh local apples.

Should you go out of your way to get to Rotisseur? Probably not. But it’s a nice place for a quick, healthy and satisfying lunch or dinner if you’re in the area.

Bruery Autumn Maple

Posted by Mike Madaio on Nov 15, 2012 in Beer Reviews | 0 comments

pic via Bruery’s FB page

Several years ago, I picked up a bottle of The Bruery’s Autumn Maple, thinking that there was no way I could not enjoy this beer. After all, it’s brewed with just about all of my favorite seasonal foods: yams, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, vanilla, molasses, and maple syrup. How could anything made with these ingredients be bad? It was terrible. I was shocked and dismayed. How could this have happened? I posted something about not liking it on Facebook, and my sister, who understands my seasonal sensibilities, assumed I was being sarcastic.

Recently, however, a friend of mine who knows quite a bit about beer said some very positive things about this particular one, which got me wondering about my experience. Could I have gotten a bad bottle? I made a mental note to give it another try if I had the opportunity. And, sure enough, Wegman’s is stocked up this season with 750ml bottles (for around $10).

This time around? It lived up to everything I thought it should be (and I’m now certain the first bottle I tried was flawed). This may be the perfect Fall seasonal. Despite the yams, it doesn’t really taste anything like a Pumpkin Ale; instead the Belgian yeast, the sweetness of the maple syrup and molasses take the lead, with lovely notes of pie spice throughout. It’s certainly a malt-forward style, with little hop bitterness to be found. Perfect for sipping with friends on a chilly evening. A must-try.

Brown Angel Double Brown Ale by Clown Shoes

Posted by Mike Madaio on Oct 3, 2012 in Beer Reviews | 0 comments

There’s a trend in the beer world to brew with real coffee, typically in darker ales. Brown Angel, a “double” brown ale from Massachusetts’ Clown Shoes Brewing Company, however, shows that you don’t need to use actual coffee to invoke its essence.

After pouring, a wave of mochachino wafts initially from the glass, with perhaps a hint of tootsie roll. This brew hits your tongue just like that morning espresso, complete with hearty roasted notes and dark, rich caramel. Though this is described as a hopped up brown, the bitterness melts into the coffee and chocolate notes with supreme balance. On the finish, there’s a hefty dose of alcoholic warmth, making this a great choice for the chilly nights of Fall and Winter.

Clown Shoes is a small startup launched by the owners of Berman’s Liquor Store in Lexington, MA; they contract brew from Mercury Brewing Co. in nearby Ipswich. Interestingly, they have a highly collaborative relationship with Dan Lipke, the brewer at Mercury. In a recent interview for DrinkCraftBeer, Clown Shoes brand ambassador Jesse Dooley discussed the process:

“We find a style of beer that we feel could be improved upon such as black ales or brown ales … We line them all up and sit down with Dan Lipke and discuss what aspects we like and dislike about the beers and how we think we could improve upon them.  We then come up with multiple ways that we all think that they could be improved and do test batches in each style.“

Does Brown Angel improve upon the standard English Brown Ale? Hard to say, really, since they are totally different beers. But for those who like the style as much as I do, this is certainly a worthy addition.