Consecration By Russian River Brewing Company

Beer Review

Compared to other American sour beers,  Consecration is  great. However, if judged against an  Oud Bruin or another classic style of Flemish sour, Consecration is a middling affair with an astronomical price tag.

Would it be fair to judge Cali’s Russian River Brewing Company on the same metric as breweries with yeast cultures  older than our country’s constitution?  I don’t think so, especially since most Americans won’t have access to those quixotic Flemish brews. Their first experience of the style will probably be this bottle, and I don’t want to dissuade a single soul from the experience.

The aroma has an element of almond and black cherry along with the impressive lactic sourness.  A whiff of cinnamon and star anise round out the scent quite well. On the palate, the sour is balanced by a medium body and then the fun really starts. The sweat and leather of brett, the spice of oak, the bite of lactic, and the richness of fruit all come together into a clean and bright and complex brew.

Cuvee De Castleton from Captain Lawrence Brewing

Captain Lawrence Brewing

Scott Vaccaro (of Captain Lawrence Brewing)  is one of the American masters of the sour brew. His beers are nonlinear but straightforward in a way only a great talent can deliver. He has often pointed to the Cantillon Brewery of Belgium as his muse and his goal. This bottling is his ode to Cantillon’s Vigneronne, which is itself an example of a druivenlambik, or a grape lambic.

The beer is co-fermented with muscat grapes and aged in old oak barrels.  As is traditional, the fermentation is done with wild yeasts, including brettanomyces and lactic bacteria. After aging, the beer is bottle conditioned, allowing a secondary fermentation to increase carbonation. This is a difficult and expensive manner to brew beer, one which few execute well. This is one of the finest examples of the style, on par with Cantillon’s Vigneronne. Kudos, Mr. Vaccaro.

The aromatics offer nutmeg, horse hair, toast, nut, lycee, and butter. On the palate, the crisp acidity of the grapes ramps up with the aggressive carbonation offering great presence.  Flavors of lemon zest and sour apple are rounded out with a  pleasant note of melon. A delightful earthy funkiness ties it all together and keeps it interesting. On the finish, a bit of garrigue and savory notes along with a nice malty lift.

The Lost Abbey Veritas 010

I am glad to see the Flemish Sour style is gaining traction at breweries in the states.  It’s a dangerous and complicated style, one that very few beer lovers embrace. However, those of us who straddle between the beer and wine worlds tend to fall head over heals in love.

Aged in oak barrels and blended with peaches, this is a well executed beer,  balancing the sweet and the sour with precision. The lactic and vanilla tones play off each other, as does just an edge of vinegary acetobacter and mushroomy  brettanomyces.  It’s a complicated and delicious brew.

In a few bottles, there was a clear sign of sulfur, which is not uncommon when using these types of bacteria and yeast in brewing. Let the beer breath for five minutes before drinking.