Eraldo Viberti

Posted by Keith Wallace on Jan 8, 2011 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

As promised, some more of the interesting wines Icame across the last two months.

Tenuta Roveglio 2008 Lugana…Trebbiano is one of the more maligned Italian varietals, sometimes deservedly so. But when done right, such as this Trebbiano di Soave branch of the family tree, it can be crisp, fruity and provide texture and depth. Peach and focused pear flavors stand out but give way to a juicy citrus finish that keeps it refreshing. Has a semi-amabile feel.

Zamo 2007 Ribolla Giallo…A masterful blend that includes Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. Mildly herbal with a hint of the pungent aromatics of the Sauvignon allied with the subdued fruitiness and creamy texture of Tocai. Picks up Riesling’s lemon/lime acidity, along with the crisp minerals you’d expect from a Colli Orientali bianco. Great with seafood.

Colli deo Bardellini 2007 Vermentino” U Munte”…There’s some decent heft in this smooth, mouthcoating Ligurian wine. Less of the usual coastal salinity, but lively acidity lifts the peach and tropical melon flavors and maintains the bright, zesty feeling throughout. Some hints of chalky minerals add interest and complexity.

Girolamo Dorigo 2006 Schioppettino….Ribolla’s Friulian cousin carries peppery and floral aromatics up front before delivering full bodied and smooth dark plums and blackberries bolstered by scorched earth and minerals.The tannins stay mild and support cassis and black raspberry undertones on the finish. 

Eraldo Viberti 2005 Langhe Nebbiolo…While this doesn’t have the breadth or depth of other versions from the area it stays true to its varietal and sense of place. Typical subdued nose, only with more herbal notes, which continue on the palate and give the fruit flavors a rustic, forest feel. Smooth, light tannins play off the tart and juicy acidity. Actually becomes more dry as it proceeds, adding a bitter earth aftertaste.

Emidio Pepe 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo…. When you reach the point where you feel that all Italian wines are starting to taste the same and you can’t tell a Chianti from a Cali Cab (which hopefully never happens!), this is the wine to lift you from the depths of standardized despair. Though the fruit is slightly more concentrated, given its hot vintage, the uncompromising authenticity that marks this producer remains true. Deep, bold, evocative….try a bottle and supply your own adjectives.

Hidden Italy: Frank’s Top Picks

Posted by Collin Flatt on Jan 7, 2011 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

1. Morgex et De La Salle “Vini  Estremi,” 2005, Valle D’Aosta 
2. Cascina Chicco Roero Arneis 2005, Piemonte
3. Caldora Pecorino, 2005, Abruzzo
4. Cormons Pignolo, 2004, Colli Orientali, Friuli
5. Frecciarossa Oltrepo Pavese Uva Rara, 2004, Piemonte
6. Santa Maddelena Lagrein “Perl,” 2004, Alto Adige
7. Mancinelli Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, 2003, Le Marche
8. Sandro Fay Valtellina Superiore ”Sassella,” 2003, Lombardia
9. Banfi “Rosa Regale” Brachetto d’Acqui, 2005, Piemonte

L’Angolo di Vino, Colli Orientali

Posted by Wine Nut on Jan 1, 2011 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

File this in the”old dog, new tricks” category. I’ve never been a fan of Italian Merlot. The ones I’d had the misfortune to experience were thin, too vegetal, and in some cases gave off sour, vinegary scents and flavors. Not much to recommend there.

So…practicing what I preach, to never give up on a grape from a specific region without ample evidence, the search for a representative Merlot brought me to Friuli – and two excellent examples of the adaptability and diversity a varietal can offer.

The first came from Walter Scarbolo, a 2006 Friuli Grave DOC. Floral and herbaceous, it was more reserved and less concentrated than many of its New World cousins. Subdued tannins lurked beneath dark berry-cherry flavors in a smooth textured wine of typical Friulian depth and extraction, giving it a presence I hadn’t found in other versions from Italy.

The other was Livio Felluga’s 2000 “Sosso” Riserva from the Colli Orientali. From its opaque color to a dry, cedary finish it showed concentration and a solid tannic backbone that was still exerting a grip after a decade in bottle, but which faded quickly to reveal plummy dark fruits that were maturing well. The nose was ripe and pleasantly showing its age, with faint traces of slowly oxidizing. A stunning wine.

Nothing left to say except, “Bow wow!”