Pierre Amadieu 2009 “Romaine Machotte” Gigondas

Posted by Keith Wallace on Feb 4, 2013 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Gigondas is one of the most complex wine regions in France, terroir-wise. Some in the valley are remarkably similar to the princely Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Some have the imposing structure of the Hermitage. A few have the delicate filigree of Burgundy.

Coming from a high-altitude vineyard at the northern tip of the Gigondas AOC. Sandalwood and balsamic notes on the nose, followed by thyme and marjoram. Flavors of red cherry and cool blue fruit rise on the attack, with a delicate web of tannin holding them together. Finish continues with a delicate balance of tarragon and cola. A pretty and delicate wine, despite its weight.

Grenache Review: Cellers Baronia del Montsant 2009 Flor de Englora Roure

Posted by Keith Wallace on Aug 22, 2012 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

A Grenache review from the Wine School of Philadelphia and Bacchus Selections.

A blend of  two thirds Garnacha (Grenache) to a third of Carinena (Carignan), the Flor d’Englora Roure highlights how remarkable modern Spanish wines can be. Is more remarkable that this bottle is priced under $15.  Grenache is not a wine that plays well with too much oak (it can oxidize), and the  limited use of oak in this bottling is near perfect.

Glass staining and inky black, the Flor d’Englora Roure is full bodied and richly flavored. Aromas of toast, campfire, and coriander rise from the glass, with a thread of liquorice.   Tobacco and mocha on the palate with a rich deep fruit flavors, plum and dark cherry. What raises this bottle from just being delicious to being superb is it’s  very deep meaty quality that is intertwined with a complex mineral element.

Cellers Baronia was founded  in 1998 by partners Carlos Macías Gallego and winemaker Xavier Canals. Like many things in northern Spain, the  winery is a juxtoposition of the old and the new. It is a wholey  modern winery that produces cutting edge wines. At the same time, it’s based in a very old wine region, Monstant, and most of its wine is sourced from very old vineyards, with most vines dating back eighty years. Production is very small, about 80,000 bottles.

About Grenache

Via Wikipedia. Grenache is grown in southern France, where it is partly responsible for the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Tavel, and many others. It is the mainstay of Rioja, makes port-style and light rosé wines in California, and is also grown in South Africa. Its wines are rich, warm, and alcoholic, sometimes too much so, and require blending with other varieties. The true Grenache has nothing to do with the Grenache de Logroño of Spain, which is, in fact, the Tempranillo or Tinto de Rioja. Some sources say the Alicante (a synonym of the Grenache) is the Alicante Bouschet (or plain Bouschet in California), but this too is misleading.

Cave de Rasteau 2007 Ortas Prestige

Posted by Keith Wallace on Jul 12, 2012 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Rasteau is one of the fine winemaking villages in France’s southern Rhone Valley, along with such notable nearby towns as Chateauneuf du Pape and Gigondas.

This particular bottle is a field blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, with an average vine age of fifty years old. Only about 10% sees aging in new French oak barrels.

The first impression is of black tea, cinnamon, and lavender. Fleshy, soft and full bodied, the wine offers up rich black fruit with a whiff of black olive and espresso. The fruit turns into black pepper and sweet vanilla on the long and delicious finish.

Philly Cooks

Posted by Keith Wallace on Jan 2, 2012 in News | 0 comments

For a town that loves to eat, I am pretty sure no one knows how to cook in Philly. At least, that is my impression after discovering how many cooking classes are offered around the city these days. From the Walnut Restaurant School to Cook Philadelphia to the Wine School, there is at least  four cooking classes going on every freaking week.  You can get taught by anyone from a celebrity chef to a bestselling cookbook author.

Along with all these classes, there is the daily pandemonium of the frozen food aisle at Trader Joes. It’s just damn sad, but I am pretty sure the only folks cooking with confidence in this city are working in restaurants. I am not one to complain, since I often get free meals (being an internationally famous food writer offers such privileges), but at least I can cook a few standards when the need arises.  However, I got pulled into the Great Philadelphia Cooking Hysteria this week, and attended a cooking class at my dearest Wine School.

This week’s class was all about the Holiday dinner. The wine was flowing and the portions were surprisingly large. The highlights of the evening was shortribs braised in imperial stout, which reminded me of the most tasty brontosaurus I have ever had. (I kid: the portion was HUGE. I have no way of knowing what a dinosaur  would taste like. Maybe like turtle? )

Also on the menu was “Toasted Italian Chestnuts and Pearl Onion Confit” which was a knock-out. Both dishes were paired with Cannonau, an ancient clone of Grenache from Sardinia and a Pinot Noir from Santa Lucia. Very nicely done.  Let’s hope everyone starts cooking like this. Dinner parties won’t feel like Russian Roulette anymore.

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L’Angolo di Vino Fondo Antico

Posted by Wine Nut on Dec 16, 2011 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Sicily, Part II

The Gambino winery sits in the shadows of Mount Etna near Linguaglossa, its terraced vineyards sloping toward the ring of towns that circle the still active volcano. The high altitude, tufarous soils are home to a range of indigenous varietals that thrive there and in other parts of the Etna DOC. Over lunch with the amiable Fabio Gambino I was able to sample several of the estate’s wines, of which the following trio stood out.

Cantari 2008 IGT …a rarity, Nerello Mascalese vinified in bianco. Pretty nose of mountain flowers and bushes, white fruits and green apples. Light but concentrated flavors with a savory mineral quality. Juicy citrus acidity with a dusty coating.

Tifeo 2008 Etna Bianco DOC…Scents of citrus, apple, orange blossoms, even the ubiquitous Sicilian broom. Deeply fruity with solid body. Stays fresh and mildly dry, evident but not overt acidity. Addition of Carricante gives it a fruit driven aftertaste and aromatic complexity.

Alicante 2008 IGT….A mouthful of intense, warm flavors still showing their youthful tannins. Semi-modern style full of red berries and hints of Mediterranean spices. Core of acidity keeps the concentrated fruit in balance. An intersting take on Grenache.

Some other noteworthy wines encountered along the strada del vino……

Duca di Salaparuta 2008 “Calanica” IGT…Inzolia buttressed by a small dose of Chardonnay, which rounds it off but does not blunt the zesty beam of acidity that keeps it lively. Perfumed and flowery waves of honeysuckle and fresh melons. A bracing salinity that adds a uniquely local feel.

Planeta 2008 “Plumbago” IGT….Nero d’Avola, not as dense as one from Noto, but cherries and red currants are here backed by loamy earth and woodsmoke. Redolent of the island’s southern coast, enhanced by exotic spices. Smooth finish of darker berries and plums. Delicious.

Fondo Antico 2009 Grillo “Perlante” IGT…From the Trapani area, perhaps the best site for this varietal. Lighter than usual, smooth, rounded. Fresh and fruity aromas of melons and wildflowers. Crisp acidity, finishes with more gusto than the start.

Milazzo 2003 “Terre della Baronia” IGT….Silky, flavorful blend of Nero d’Avola and Perricone. Smoky nose of red fruit and earth. Bursts of acidity keep it vigorous. Pleasant and well articulated cherries and seasonal fruits. Versatile, structured, and food friendly.

Cantine Florio 1998 “Terre Arse Vergine” Marsala….From a well respected master of the style. Complex layers of apricots, liquory raisins, citrus, nuts, brown sugar. Picks up intense flavors of dried fig and honey. Not truly viscous, there are recurring hints of sweetness in this slightly dry and balanced wine.