L’Angolo di Vino Fondo Antico

Posted by Wine Nut on Dec 16, 2011 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Sicily, Part II

The Gambino winery sits in the shadows of Mount Etna near Linguaglossa, its terraced vineyards sloping toward the ring of towns that circle the still active volcano. The high altitude, tufarous soils are home to a range of indigenous varietals that thrive there and in other parts of the Etna DOC. Over lunch with the amiable Fabio Gambino I was able to sample several of the estate’s wines, of which the following trio stood out.

Cantari 2008 IGT …a rarity, Nerello Mascalese vinified in bianco. Pretty nose of mountain flowers and bushes, white fruits and green apples. Light but concentrated flavors with a savory mineral quality. Juicy citrus acidity with a dusty coating.

Tifeo 2008 Etna Bianco DOC…Scents of citrus, apple, orange blossoms, even the ubiquitous Sicilian broom. Deeply fruity with solid body. Stays fresh and mildly dry, evident but not overt acidity. Addition of Carricante gives it a fruit driven aftertaste and aromatic complexity.

Alicante 2008 IGT….A mouthful of intense, warm flavors still showing their youthful tannins. Semi-modern style full of red berries and hints of Mediterranean spices. Core of acidity keeps the concentrated fruit in balance. An intersting take on Grenache.

Some other noteworthy wines encountered along the strada del vino……

Duca di Salaparuta 2008 “Calanica” IGT…Inzolia buttressed by a small dose of Chardonnay, which rounds it off but does not blunt the zesty beam of acidity that keeps it lively. Perfumed and flowery waves of honeysuckle and fresh melons. A bracing salinity that adds a uniquely local feel.

Planeta 2008 “Plumbago” IGT….Nero d’Avola, not as dense as one from Noto, but cherries and red currants are here backed by loamy earth and woodsmoke. Redolent of the island’s southern coast, enhanced by exotic spices. Smooth finish of darker berries and plums. Delicious.

Fondo Antico 2009 Grillo “Perlante” IGT…From the Trapani area, perhaps the best site for this varietal. Lighter than usual, smooth, rounded. Fresh and fruity aromas of melons and wildflowers. Crisp acidity, finishes with more gusto than the start.

Milazzo 2003 “Terre della Baronia” IGT….Silky, flavorful blend of Nero d’Avola and Perricone. Smoky nose of red fruit and earth. Bursts of acidity keep it vigorous. Pleasant and well articulated cherries and seasonal fruits. Versatile, structured, and food friendly.

Cantine Florio 1998 “Terre Arse Vergine” Marsala….From a well respected master of the style. Complex layers of apricots, liquory raisins, citrus, nuts, brown sugar. Picks up intense flavors of dried fig and honey. Not truly viscous, there are recurring hints of sweetness in this slightly dry and balanced wine.

Philly Wine Festival

Posted by Keith Wallace on Mar 26, 2011 in Wine Reviews | 1 comment

Another year, another Philly Wine Festival. Looking for this year’s Tudori, looking past the usual suspects. Seeing old acquaintances and making some new ones. Learning more than a thing or two from representatives who were not just pouring and picking up a day’s pay but actually were engaged with and articulate about the product. And even though I’d sworn to breeze through the Italian aisle…here is a sampling of some things worthy of attention.

Livio Felluga 2007 “Esperto”….a crisp, pure Friulian Pinot Grigio that expresses what the grape can be. All sorts of floral and ripe fruit aromas with a touch of honey that stays focused until a balanced, mineral laced finish.

Jermann 2007 Pinot Grigio IGT….there’s an Alsatian savoriness in the fresh and mildly spicy aspect of this full, rich wine that hits all the varietal high notes. With the right amount of acidity and minerals to showcase its Isonzo terroir.

A pair of surprises from Geandre Imports:
Vivalda Massimiliano 2004 “Il Clumbe” Barbera d’Asti…more extraction and earth than usual for an Asti, at first sip it comes on like a Monferrato with concentrated dark, forest fruits backed by herbs and spices. Gains depth as it goes, with bursts of acidic lift to support soft, mature fruit. A chunk of Piemonte in a glass.

Poggio al Pino 2003 “Templare”, Toscana Rosso IGT…there was enough spice and “macchia” in here to make me think it was Sardinian Cannonau…but it’s pure Sangiovese with waves of cherries, leather, mushrooms behind the deceptive opening. Power and finesse in a rich package that stays balanced throughout.

Italian Pick of The Week: Antonio Longanesi,

Posted by Keith Wallace on Feb 10, 2011 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Tenuta Uccillino 2004 Burson Riserva, IGT, Emilia-Romagna

The wines of the Emilia-Romagna have always been pushed to the background by the gastronomic delights of Bologna, Parma and Modena. Understandable when you factor in that for decades the region’s vinicultural standard bearer was fizzy, light, everybody’s-easy-to-like Lambrusco.

That doesn’t mean there isn’t good wine to be had. For example, the area near the ancient city of Ravenna is home to five communes producing an IGT wine known locally as Burson, from the obscure Longanesi grape. The varietal is named for Antonio Longanesi who found it nestled among other plantings sometime in the 1950′s. Though most likely a survivor from Roman times, it was a blending grape few outside its immediate vicinity had heard of.

Interesting, then, to discover a partially “passito” wine of Amarone-like depth, with aromas of forest fruits, dark plums, spice and well seasoned raisins. The lush texture is buoyed by markedly good acidity. Concentrated and balanced, totally seamless from front to an excellent, mouth filling finish. Only one way to describe this hidden gem – delicious!

Sicilia Cataratto

Posted by Keith Wallace on Jan 7, 2011 in News, Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Tomas and Giesen “Munir Bianco” 2006, IGT, Sicilia

Cataratto is one of the most widely planted grapes in Italy. It accounts for over half of Sicily’s vineyard acres and is known primarily for use as a bulk wine grape or as part of the blend for Marsala.

The Lucido variety grows in the Alcamo DOC near Palermo. Low in sugar and acidity it characteristically makes soft, mellow, undistinguished wines not unlike other whites found throughout Italy.

Thankfully, “Munir” is produced outside the box of DOC regulations. This 100% varietal has an exotic, fruity nose with floral undertones. Peaches, melon, and lemon oil pop up on the slightly effervescent mid-palate. Savory minerals and herbs add zest and freshness to the unoaked, pure mouthfeel. This is no lightweight, showing ample presence despite the low level of acidity.

L’Anfolo di Vino, 7/28/09

Posted by Keith Wallace on Jan 7, 2011 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Tenute Dettori 2005 Bianco, Romangia IGT

A little over a year ago I ws raving about this winery’s Tudori, an atypical old school Sardinian Cannonau that exemplifies their uncompromising commitment to making wines that express a unique sense of culture and place.

The Bianco is a 100% Vermentino that challenges fixed notions of what that grape can offer. Macerated in cement tanks after a natural fermentation, it is neither clarified, stabilized, nor oaked before being hand bottled by the extended family. The only concession to “technology” is maintaining consistent cellar temperature.

The result? A concentrated amber color that resembles an oxidized Chardonnay. A mouthfilling texture and full, rich body. A 15% ABV leavened by a beam of acid

This is a wine to be savored. Nuances of aroma and flavor don’t need to be deconstructed or over analyzed. To do so would miss the point, and be a disservice to the winemaker’s philosophical description of his creations – “…they are what they are. ” And what they are is as authentic as it gets, an oasis of take-it-or-leave-it winemaking in a Sahara of standardization.