Rotisseur: A Philadelphia Restaurant Review
Typically when one encounters a place with this MO — a hole-in-the-wall, with a staple main ingredient (in this case rotisserie chicken, but also barbecue, fried chicken, burgers, etc.) — the restaurant tends to make incredible chicken/whatever, and the sides tend to be limp and uninspiring. At Rotisseur, it was the total opposite. Well, not exactly. The chicken was good – it just wasn’t great, which one would expect at a place that serves mostly chicken. The sides, however, border on great.
Two veggies that can, especially when served in this type of assembly line-style environment, can be soggy and lifeless, were delicious. Brussels sprouts – the seasonal side on offer – were pan-fried to a slightly crispy, firm texture. The roasted potatoes were also crisp, yet creamy. Croutons on top of the mac & cheese were kinda, well, cheesy (sorry), but they added a nice crunch to the proceedings. Lastly, the warm farro salad (an off-menu item, it seems) tasted just like Thanksgiving stuffing.
Perhaps the most exciting thing about Rotisseur is the value. A thigh & leg meal with two sides will run you $8.5, and it’s a good sized portion. (A breast/wing meal is a dollar more – but why would you pay more for a less-flavorful option?) Of course, you’re not paying for a whole lot other than the food. There’s counter service, and there are just a few small tables inside the tiny space. (There are also a few tables outside for warm weather). It’s BYOB, and they offer an interesting selection of Mexican sodas.
In addition, Rotisseur has some intriguing bánh mì on the menu, which branch out from the chicken-only theme. Of particular interest is the duck confit, served with togarashi dressing (chili sauce), pickled red cabbage, pickled daikon, cilantro, cucumber, duck confit, lime, scallion and fresh local apples.
Should you go out of your way to get to Rotisseur? Probably not. But it’s a nice place for a quick, healthy and satisfying lunch or dinner if you’re in the area.
Epikur is a magazine about food and drink, with a focus on our hometown of Philadelphia.
