Domaine Philippe Portier 2010 “Cuvee Victoires” Quincy

90+ Wine

I believe this obscure wine region is worth a fresh look, especially after tasting this example. Located close to the famous Sancerre, Quincy produces classic Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of tarragon, pear, and granite dominate. Grapefruit and currant on the palate, along with two edges of granite and grass.

Hubert Veneau 2011 Pouilly Fume

 

 2011 Pouilly Fume

The way to not sell to an American is by telling him that a wine is served to politicians. We especially (and by “We” I mean us in general) don’t want to hear that is was served to the French Parliament.  This is something you learn very quickly in the wine biz (I had a friend who earned a bucket load of angry emails from customers when she proudly announced her wine had been served in the White House.) Booze is political here in the states (thank you, Prohibition!).

Who ever is running the PR campaign for this wine should lay of the “Veneau wines are served all over the world, and notably at the table of the French Parliament” line. It’s really not going to move bottles. That is sad, because this is a fantastic bottle of modern Pouilly, perched somewhere between the flinty traditions of the Loire and the modern pizzazz of New Zealand.

On the nose, sweet grass and jalapeno peppers wiggle about, along with a strong note of fresh melon. On the palate the acidity is brilliant and cutting and perfectly clear. The minerality soaks in with a bit of toasted pine nuts and beeswax.  Grapefruit and lemon zest  rise into the finish, which then folds towards quince and granite.

 

Napa Review: Bridesmaid 2009 White

This Napa review is brought to you by the Wine School of Philadelphia and Bacchus Selections.

Napa Review

Far too many white wines from Napa Valley don’t have the same level of sex appeal that the reds. That is not the problem here.  A classic Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, but this is a very modern style of wine.

The wine starts with aromas of toasted pine nuts and quince, with just a touch of sweet grass. On the palate, there are only a few layers of flavor on this wine, but each of them is rich. The first is a honeyed layer of fruit that oscillates between honeydew and Georgia peach.  The next has the minerality of hot stones and coolness of thick steel. Finally, the finish of freshly planted flowers and a touch of lemon zest unfolds long and lubriciously slow.

This wine is a joint project between two respected Napa winemakers: Pam Starr and Drew Neiman.  Pam is the former winemaker for Spottswood, and Drew was the winemaker for Kongsgaard. This wine is really about the  art of the final, which both Pam and Drew are masters. They don’t grow the grapes or make the wine. Instead, they  source high-quality barrels from other Napa producers, and execute a final blend. It sounds simple, but it’s far from it.

 

About Napa Valley

Via Wikipedia. This AVA includes all of the county with the exception of the area around Putah Creek and Lake Berryessa. The Napa Valley appellation is 25 miles (40 kilometers) long and between 12 and 8 and 10 miles (16 kilometers) wide, and is sheltered by two parallel mountain ranges. The majority of vineyards occupy the flat valley floor in a continuous strip from Napa to Calistoga, although the slopes are also beginning to be cultivated.

Bernardus 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Griva Vineyard, Sonoma County

Classical notes of grass and green pepper on the nose, along with plenty of grapefruit. Flavors of fig and apricot are followed by lemon zest and a touch of waxiness. The wine finishes with smoke and kiwi. A gentle roundness gives this a little more sex appeal than most Sauvignon Blancs.

Brancott 2008 “Conders Forest” Sauvignon Blanc

The most complex Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand I have tasted professionally.
Asian Pear, Grapefruit, Pineapple, and Guava blend seamlessly on the palate with the complexity threading through the entire experience. Superb.