Just as dark and scented as a freshly pulled espresso. A full bodied stout with rich milk chocolate on the palate . Strands of smoky molasses and saltwater taffy develop on the mid-palate The finish turns veers to charcoal and coffee beans and ends with a nice clean bit of malted barley.
Last St. Paddy’s Day, I implored you to forgo Guinness and other mass-produced Irish imports for local brews that pack more freshness and flavor. One year on, my opinion hasn’t changed, and our local beer scene continues to improve and evolve. My first choice, in fact, on everyone’s favorite drinking holiday would surely be Victory’s Donnybrook Stout.
Donnybrook, however, like many other Irish-style stouts, is one of those creamy, distinctive beers that is only available on nitro tap (meaning that nitrogen is used instead of carbon dioxide in the carbonation process). Because nitrogen is largely insoluble in liquid, beers made in this method tend to have a deceptively thick mouthfeel and offer that distinctive cascade up the glass after being poured.
Guinness, of course, as well as several other internationally-known nitrogenated beers, has long made its signature stout available in a can with a widget at the bottom that approximates the effect of the nitro tap. For those of us who want to enjoy these wonderful beers at home, these macro-brewer widget cans have been our only option.
Until Left Hand Brewing Company’s Milk Stout Nitro, that is. These guys, see, have somehow figured out how to bottle nitrogenated beer. With no widget. Once opening the bottle, you just turn it completely upside down (over a glass!) and let it vigorously and completely pour out. If done correctly, a classic nitro cascade with be only moments away… as will the taste of a freaking delicious stout. This baby is fresh, and smooth, and chocolatey. Bottom line, this is gulping beer.
I must, of course, point out that Left Hand is not a local brewery (it’s in Denver, CO). It is, however, an American brewery, much closer to Philly than Dublin, and heck, they’re even calling this beer “America’s Stout”. Bold words? Not behind this deliciousness.
Thick, quick and black as mud. A sweet coffee squid oozing out of the bottle. The unholy union of a chocolate bar and an oil can. These are all reasonable ways to describe this Imperial Russian Stout.
Black as night with a cream tan head, this one is picture perfect in the glass. Sticking your nose above the foam, one is graced with the breakfasty scents of espresso and fruit cake. After awhile, a touch of alcohol comes through along with a scent of molasses and malt.
Eventually, one has to drink, and the beer is is rich and full, with enough carbonation to keep the balance. Malt and fruit ester flavors are the first taste impression: red fruit and molasses. A smooth chocolate milk texture and flavor come into play in the midpalate, and then the hops start peeking out. Sometimes Stone uses hops as a beating stick, but here they are in service of a higher power.
Here is a bit of dessert for you. A high octane but richly textured Stout with a chocolate personality. The color of this sticky beer is the black of Belgian chocolate, with a head like a Mochaccino Latte. The flavors follow forward with dark bitter chocolate flavors that fade just enough to allow a bit of toffee and vanilla come forward (I am not kidding when I said this is dessert–perhaps the best dessert I have had in awhile). The finish moves toward dark molasses and coffee. This full bodied beer has enough carbonation to keep it from becoming cloying, and allow this beer to finish crisp and almost dry. Which is perfect, because now you are ready for the next sip…
Epikur is a magazine about food and drink, with a focus on our hometown of Philadelphia.
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