Earlier this week, while we were enjoying that brief, sudden, sodden stint of surprisingly spring-y weather, I found myself craving a nice cool glass of white. So I started poking around my cellar, looking for who-knew-what, when I came across a Susana Balbo rose of Malbec I’d forgotten about. And though its strawberry fruit had shed some of its vibrancy, and though it was pouring outside, and though I felt like I had stepped into some strange off-season performance-art version of Eliot’s “Waste Land”–the cruelest month having arrived either far too early or far too late in the year–what I had in my hand was all I needed to make everything right with the world: A glassful of pink sunshine. Never underestimate the restorative powers of a glass of pink.
There’s nothing terribly new about Argentina, but the blend here might be unfamiliar: Syrah (which you know) and Bonarda (which you might not). But for $12.99 in PA right now, it’s a wine that’s worth trying. This fruity, surprisingly complex steal, from one of Argentina’s top female winemakers, is bound to become a staple in your cellar…or liver.
Sign me up as the first member of the Susana Balbo fan club. Her wines are so well-made, so affordable, so fun, that whenever I see them in the wine shop they somehow, of their own volition, jump right into my cart. And, boy, am I glad this one did. It’s everything I want from a rose: delicious fruit (strawberries, rhubarb), bright acidity, and a finish that splits the difference between something melonlike and surprisingly nutty. And at $10 or $11, buying a case is not out of the question.