Kawarau 2006 Pinot Noir Reserve

Posted by Keith Wallace on Jun 25, 2012 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Sourced from one of the oldest blocks of Pinot Noir in the Central Otago region, this bottle is a very good example of what New Zealand can do.

The winemaker, Dean Shaw, is known for his non-interventionist winemaking. This bottle is a decent example of the minimalist style, except for the huge gobs of oak. Oh, and Kawarau is a certified organic winery, if you are into that sort of thing.

Dried Cranberries and fresh plum dominate the nose, but a whiff of smoke and flowers comes through, too. On the palate, this is clearly not your average Pinot from NZ. A surprisingly tannic Pinot, it is counterbalanced with a jolt of fresh acidity.

The combination pays off, with complex fruit flavors that range from pomegranate to fig, and back again. While intense, the overall impression is soft and lovely.

Drink the Cheddar

Posted by Keith Wallace on Feb 5, 2012 in Philly | 4 comments

The first wine bar to exclusively feature wine from Pennsylvania is about to open in a few days. This is a significant moment for local viticulture: PA wineries have never been accorded this level of economic support and visibility in a major city. It would not be overstating that this is a historic first for our local wine industry. And it has been met with a limp silence from the media.

Why the silence? Because it’s common knowledge that Pennsylvania wines suck. They are sweet or taste awful. Or both. Local wineries are held to ridicule, and no one with aspirations of refinement and culture would ever speak well of a local winery. How do we know this? Because everyone says so!

So, Terry McNally opens the Paris Wine Bar (2303 Fairmount Avenue) without much fanfare. McNally is the owner of London Grill next door to the new wine bar. She is one of the first Philly restaurateurs to embrace the “Farm to Table” ethos, long before it was trendy.

The idea that Pennsylvania cannot produce good wine is bullshit, to be frank. The region has similar weather patterns (Köppen climate classification Cfa) as the Piedmonte in Italy. That, along with the long band of limestone soil that runs through the Brandywine valley, you have the foundation of high-quality viticulture. Add to that a decent amount of air flow, a few hills of degraded friable schist, or even a sandy valley, and you have the makings of top-shelf wines. Just make sure the vines have southwestern exposure, and that’s terroir in a nutshell.

What’s keeping local winemaker’s back? It’s all about the cheddar, baby. Unlike other east coast wine regions like Virginia, the state doesn’t invest much in the state’s wineries. Tellingly, Pennsylvania offers a wealthy of grant opportunities to farms, except for one’s growing wine grapes. This keeps funding for research and development of the PA wine industry continuing at a snails pace.

The other reason is you. And by “you” I mean in aggregate, the millions of wine buyers in the region. You buy Chardonnay and Merlot and rarely anything else. If you do buy a local wine, it is going to be a sweet one. For a local winemaker, this sucks. The grapes that work well here are not the ones people will buy.

There is a legend in the local wine trade about a hotshot young winemaker who came here from California and crafted what was probably the best wine ever to be made in Pennsylvania. Every sommelier and winemaker who tasted it agreed it was going to change the face of winemaking in the state. It was amazing. It was shipped to the wine stores, but no one would try it. Very few people were willing to give a Cabernet Franc from Pennsylvania a chance. Only a few hundred cases were sold. It was a total failure, and the end of the poor bastard’s career.

SO, until the cheddar start to flow, the PA wine industry will continue to tread water. Until then, amazing wines made from grapes like Bonarda, Barbera, Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc will remain theoretical. That is why a wine bar in Philadelphia means so much, it may mean the beginning of a new era for local winemakers. It very well could change how you perceive our local wineries.

It’s not just about drinking well. A recent report from Virginia showed that the local wine industry added $747 Million to the state’s economy every year. Most of that from a grape that few people have heard of: viognier. Drinking local brings in the cheddar, baby.

My Lil’ Wino

Posted by M.L. Wolfsohn on Jan 2, 2012 in Wine Reviews | 0 comments

It’s a million dollar idea that’s cost $10 Million to achieve.  That’s typical logic for you in the wine trade. After years of hard work… you end up with less money than you began with. Fortunately, you get to drink your losses, so it’s not all bad.

Don’t get me wrong, the idea is fantastic (and yes, I know we are a paragraph into this entry and I haven’t even told you what it is). I just hope the investors don’t give up before  it catches on. I’m talking about this great little thing called TastingRoom.com. For about $5, you can  sample a wine that would typically go for anywhere between $30-$70 a bottle.  The keyword here  is sample, as in less than two ounces.

This is really cool, if you want to sample a range of kick-ass wines without having to spend big bucks. It’s the wine lovers version of Reader’s Digest Condensed Books. But then, there is the even bigger, behind-the-scenes reason this is such a great concept: this will allow small family run wineries the chance to introduce their wines to journalists across the country without breaking the bank.  We all benefit when the little guy gets press.  Mondavi and Duboeuf get enough love already.

A Wine Spectator Darling in the Works

Posted by Keith Wallace on Jan 6, 2011 in News | 0 comments

Alexander Valley Vineyards 2004 “Top of the Crop” Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 

A bottling from AVV’s new Reserve line, this Cabernet is a good step forward for this family-owned winery. The aromatics begin with a whiff of buttered popcorn flowing into fresh tobacco and basil along with a solid dose of blackberry. On the palate, the wine hits off with eucalyptus and graphite under a core of just-ripe cherries and hazelnuts. Tart cherries and cinnamon roll out in the end.

The Cabernet is definitely a middle-weight with high acidity and raw tannins that will soften after 3-6 years of aging. $35 retail. Wine Spectator will probably give this a 90-plus rating.

Baglio Fici

Posted by Keith Wallace on Jan 5, 2011 in News, Wine Reviews | 0 comments

Sicily, Part I

A recent trip to Persephone’s island afforded the opportunity to taste dozens of wines made from indigenous varietals, all of which captured the sun drenched, arid landscape of Sicily, and gave evidence of the cultural and enological diversity to be found there.

Chiara Planeta, one of fifteen cousins who operate the family winery at Sambuca di Sicilia, believes that Sicilian winemakers are at a critical point in elevating the image and quality of their wines in the international market. This was an opinion echoed by her colleagues in various parts of Sicily, from Etna to Trapani. If the following examples are representative of the future of Sicilian wines , they are on the proper course.

Benanti 2006 Nerello Mascalese “Rosso di Verzella” …Dense forest berries carry waves of flavor to a smooth, dark finish. Just enough rustic edge, with the acidity usually found in Etna wines.

Duca di Castelmonte 2009 Grillo “Notorious”…Rich golden color, slightly viscous look and texture. Soft citrus balanced with herb and mineral laced peaches. Full flavored and vibrant.

Castellucimiano 2007 Perricone…Somewhat floral with a touch of anise on the nose. Layers of dark cherries, berries and currants emerge. Persistant, with savory tannins and the typical Sicilian level of food friendly acidity.

Baglio Fici 2008 Inzolia…Mildly viscous and a mouthfeel that is almost amabile. Extremely ripe peaches and melons, layers of exotic fruitiness. Mildly herbaceous with dried flower aromas.

Castellucimiano 2009 Catarratto…Clean pure nose and flavors of apples, citrus fruits, pears, and native wild underbrush. Crisp, precise attack leads to a persistantly fruity finish with cleansing acidity.

Foraci 2008 Grillo…Floral, semi-tropical scents with hints of hazelnut. the palate is enlivened by zesty acidity, picks up some floral elements midway along with a “green” quality to the mildly ripe fruits. A bitter almond finish reminiscent of a Verdicchio.

Planeta 2009 Grecanico “Alastro“…Prior to this vintage  “Alastro” was a blend with Chardonnay. The ’09 is fuller and more interesting, just as dense but more rounded, with notable structure for a white. White fruits, minerals, and floral nuances might remind some of Soave, but this has more staying power.

Planeta 2009 Passito di Noto…A lush Moscato dessert wine. Loads of aromas and flavors – apricots, orange peel, dates, a touch of vanilla. Dense and creamy with hints of pastry spices, wildflowers. A lively burst of acidity keeps the sweetness in check and cuts through the concentreted texture.

Abraxas 2008 “Kuddia Del Gallo“…WOW!! A dry version of Zibbibo, the Moscato used in Marsala. Has all the flowers and fruits of a passito, though not as concentrated. Lightly perfumed apricots and orange blossoms. Intense, yet uplifted by refreshing acidity. More floral as a secco. Unique and interesting, even for Sicily,drinks full for a white.

Part II next week…some more tasting notes and observations.