L’Anfolo di Vino, 7/28/09
Tenute Dettori 2005 Bianco, Romangia IGT
A little over a year ago I ws raving about this winery’s Tudori, an atypical old school Sardinian Cannonau that exemplifies their uncompromising commitment to making wines that express a unique sense of culture and place.
The Bianco is a 100% Vermentino that challenges fixed notions of what that grape can offer. Macerated in cement tanks after a natural fermentation, it is neither clarified, stabilized, nor oaked before being hand bottled by the extended family. The only concession to “technology” is maintaining consistent cellar temperature.
The result? A concentrated amber color that resembles an oxidized Chardonnay. A mouthfilling texture and full, rich body. A 15% ABV leavened by a beam of acid
This is a wine to be savored. Nuances of aroma and flavor don’t need to be deconstructed or over analyzed. To do so would miss the point, and be a disservice to the winemaker’s philosophical description of his creations – “…they are what they are. ” And what they are is as authentic as it gets, an oasis of take-it-or-leave-it winemaking in a Sahara of standardization.