Parc

restaurant review

The Final Word

We  aggregate all relevant reviews, both  professional and consumer, to come up with the final word on a restaurant. We pour through the restaurant reviews to come up with a preliminary rating. Armed with that knowledge, we  send out our own elite squad of  professional reviewers to verify the findings.  By that point, we have all the information we need to edit out all the PR reviews which show up on blogs, comments, and the review sites (including Yelp) . We then take all those reviews and squeeze it into a 5 star rating, which you see to the right. We also give you the overview of our research, which is listed in the three boxes below.

Restaurant Critics Are On the Fence

Craig Leban loved the space but noted a lack in both food and service. Also the noise levels were pointed out as being nearly unbearable. “ frenzied pace of evening service kicks in, the struggle to execute at dizzyingly high volume is even more obvious” and “he constant crush of patrons puts Parc’s service team on the spot to deliver, a challenge it doesn’t always handle with equal grace” are typical points made by Mr. Leban.

For Craig, the major draw was the “the sheer magnetism of Parc’s Parisian good looks.” of this

That was in 2008, and the restaurant has been shown, time and again, to manage good service with consistently executed products.

Most reviewers (like Joy Manning, the former Philly Mag critic) use the term sprawling to describe the scale of the place.  Joy has the highest praise for the food, calling it standard Bistro fare. Others, like  Adam Erace (then writing for PW) noted the food was inconsistent. The one exeption is the baked goods, which earn near-universal praise. 

Folks Love It

The overwhelming diners gave this an enthusiastic thumbs up, noting that it looks like a mid-century parisian bistro, with well-executed standards.  The only review site which earned a less than positive aggregate review was Yelp. The negative yelpers (which we define as giving a 3 star or less) were very telling. Yelp tends to hit a younger demographic than others, and the majority of negative reviews were largely focused on two issues: meal prices and the quality of cocktails. This plays out throughout even the positive reviews: The major drawback of Parc is a less-than-average quality for price ratio, and a lack of expert bartenders who can go “off menu”. Sources: Yelp, Urbanspoon, Foobooz, Zagat, and Google Places 

 

The Critical Reviews are Outdated.

Over the past four years, Parc has polished it’s execution of standard french fair, and is now boasts one of the most consistent kitchens in Philadelphia. The breads and baked goods continue to be superb, as is brunch. The noise levels are no longer as much an issue as they once were: partly because of discrete sound absorption panels  installed into the ceilings and partly because it’s  no longer “the place” for singletons to try their luck on a Friday night.

The best seats in the house are at the zinc-lined bar and tables  near the windows looking over Rittenhouse Park. Because of location and the sheer style of the place (it apparently cost $6 million to design), you do pay more for the experience (just like in a Parisian bistro at a great address). The downfall here is the wine list. There are plenty of overpriced mediocre bottles that fail to excite.

If you want to have an experience and enjoy yourself, Parc is wonderful… as long as you don’t mind a bit of sticker shock.

Parc Brasserie on Urbanspoon

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Brick American Eatery

restaurant review

The Final Word on Brick.  

We  aggregate all relevant reviews, both  professional and consumer, to come up with the final word on a restaurant. We pour through the restaurant reviews to come up with a preliminary rating. Armed with that knowledge, we  send out our own elite squad of  professional reviewers to verify the findings.  By that point, we have all the information we need to edit out all the PR reviews which show up on blogs, comments, and the review sites (including Yelp) . We then take all those reviews and squeeze it into a 5 star rating, which you see to the right. We also give you the overview of our research, which is listed in the three boxes below.

Eaters Say No Go.

People who have eaten at this restaurant don’t think much of this beer and burger joint. Big negatives are the cheapo Groupon deals that seem to force the kitchen to cut corners whenever possible. The lack of coherent management is a big negative (one of the young owners seems to have more interest in picking up women then helping his servers pick up checks). Food quality is reported to be mediocre at best. A tiny fraction of diners thought the food was above average.

Sources: Yelp, Groupon, Urbanspoon, Foobooz, Zagat, and Google Places 

 

 Restaurant Critics Hate It.

It’s telling when none of the usual suspects review a restaurant after a year. Most bloggers seem to be terrififed of writing negative reviews, and the silence from the blogosphere is deafening.  Only one brave blogger was found to say anything about the restaurant, and even that one stated they would only return with a groupon discount.  The only professional critic bothering to review this joint was Brian Freedman of Philly Weekly. “ a series of vaguely depressing missteps” and “the food really burrowed into my soul and elicited a deep, break-up-style depression” were two of the most telling quotes. 

 

 

We agree with the haters.

Our two meals at Brick American Eatery were mediocre, with dishes spanning the range of awful (Fish and Chips)  to just plain boring (Lamb Burger).

For us, the lack of professionalism shown by the management is what puts Brick at the bottom of the bucket. We watched as one of the owners nearly missed running over  a pedestrian while driving. While the owner  berated and threatened the poor guy, other members of the owner’s family streamed out of the restaurant and also began to threaten him, too. The kicker? The owner from Brick was driving his car in the bike lane.  The final word? Eating a brick has never been more unpleasant.

 

Brick American Eatery on Urbanspoon

Rotisseur: A Philadelphia Restaurant Review

restaurant reviewTypically when one encounters a place with this MO — a hole-in-the-wall, with a staple main ingredient (in this case rotisserie chicken, but also barbecue, fried chicken, burgers, etc.) — the restaurant tends to make incredible chicken/whatever, and the sides tend to be limp and uninspiring. At Rotisseur, it was the total opposite. Well, not exactly. The chicken was good – it just wasn’t great, which one would expect at a place that serves mostly chicken. The sides, however, border on great.

Two veggies that can, especially when served in this type of assembly line-style environment, can be soggy and lifeless, were delicious. Brussels sprouts – the seasonal side on offer – were pan-fried to a slightly crispy, firm texture. The roasted potatoes were also crisp, yet creamy. Croutons on top of the mac & cheese were kinda, well, cheesy (sorry), but they added a nice crunch to the proceedings. Lastly, the warm farro salad (an off-menu item, it seems) tasted just like Thanksgiving stuffing.

Perhaps the most exciting thing about Rotisseur is the value. A thigh & leg meal with two sides will run you $8.5, and it’s a good sized portion. (A breast/wing meal is a dollar more – but why would you pay more for a less-flavorful option?) Of course, you’re not paying for a whole lot other than the food. There’s counter service, and there are just a few small tables inside the tiny space. (There are also a few tables outside for warm weather). It’s BYOB, and they offer an interesting selection of Mexican sodas.

In addition, Rotisseur has some intriguing bánh mì on the menu, which branch out from the chicken-only theme. Of particular interest is the duck confit, served with togarashi dressing (chili sauce), pickled red cabbage, pickled daikon, cilantro, cucumber, duck confit, lime, scallion and fresh local apples.

Should you go out of your way to get to Rotisseur? Probably not. But it’s a nice place for a quick, healthy and satisfying lunch or dinner if you’re in the area.

Rotisseur on Urbanspoon

Culinaria Popup: A Foodie Paradise.

food & wine pairing

Culinaria Food & Wine Pairing Event

 

Culinaria is a fantastic new culinary event. Once a month, the good folks at the Wine School put on a food and wine pairing extravaganza.  The menu is crafted by Keith Wallace, the guy behind the Sommelier Smackdown and Corked & Forked Cookbook. Wine pairings are crafted by the brilliant sommelier Zach Morris.
This week, the menu combines classical Italian and Mexican cuisines.  The dishes are very traditional from very different cuisines, but pair up in a surprisingly harmonious way. The menu is listed below. The wine pairings will not be decided upon until Friday, so Zach can sample the dishes before coming up with the perfect pairings. Yeah, it’s a tough life working at that wine school!
Zuppa di Aragosta e Zucca.
A soup of  fresh Maine lobster and pumpkin.  Creamy and savory, it balances the richness of our favorite crustacean with the lush texture of  roasted and pureed squash.
Oaxacan Black Mole with Braised Lancaster Chicken.
This is a traditional mole using cacao nibs and a bevy of chili peppers. It’s like taking a toboggan ride on a chilies into the bitter heart of chocolate.  The chicken is slowly braised in the sauce over many hours. This is a dish has a history back to 16th century Mexico, originally named chīlmōlli.
Risotto allo Champagne e Tartufo
A risotto of Carnaroli (a traditional rice variety from the  Piedmont) and white truffles.  A decadent dish, with bottles of champagne and white truffles added to the rice as it slowly is cooked.  To cap it off, a final splash of  champagne is added right before being served.
Maiale al Latte
A Venetian dish with a long culinary history. In the 19th century, it was a  beloved dish in the  Austrian-Hungarian Empire, but it’s origins are much more ancient. In fact, this dish predates the Renaissance. It’s origin is Roman, possibly Etruscan.  It’s no surprise that with such an ancient origin,  the dish is both refreshingly unexpected and utterly delicious.  Cooked in a clay pot in milk and wine for an entire day, it is a worthy taste of the old old world.
Tickets for this food and wine pairing event (to be held on Friday, October 26th at 7:30pm) and many others can be purchased on the Wine Scho0ol’s website: www.vinology.com
The Wine School is located at 22nd & Sansom near Rittenhouse Square.

Hickory Lane Bistro

FairmountHickory Lane Bistro, an upscale neighborhood joint on Fairmont Ave. in Philly (next to Eastern State Penitentiary) is a good spot for tasty American fare.

The place is developing a reputation for high quality burgers, and chef Matt Zagorski is the former executive chef of burger-lover haven Rouge, so a burger seemed like a good bet. (No, it was not bison.) The hand-shaped patty is 10oz of MPZ blend beef (whatever that means), and served with aged cheddar, bibb lettuce and tomato on a challah bun.

This sucker is huge! I am known – at least among friends and family – for having an abnormally large mouth, and I still could not get the whole thing in there (TWSS). What a delicious burger it was though – beautifully charred on the outside, perfectly juicy and ruby pink all the way through. Wow. This is medium rare, people. The mound of pommes frites served alongside were pedestrian, but dutifully sopped up the potentially habit-forming garlic aoli dipping sauce.

One dining companion, who had eaten here before, demonstrated veteran guile by ordering the burger without cheese. Not that the cheese isn’t delicious, but, being aged cheddar, it doesn’t melt particularly well, and there is quite a bit of it, so it kind of congeals on top of the burger. As such, the textural weirdness cancels out the flavor positives, so one could easily do without it (and on a 10oz burger, most of us need all the calorie credits we can get).

Hickory Lane was BYOB, but a dreaded orange sign hung forlornly in the window during my visit. (The bar opened on September 7th, with BYO still allowed for a limited time.) It’ll be interesting to see what happens here – though this place most definitely has a casual neighborhood vibe to it, the prices are currently closer to destination restaurant territory ($15 for a burger, mid $20s for entrees). If the prices don’t come down with the introduction of liquor, Hickory Lane may price itself out of the neighborhood.

In the meantime, local burger clubbers should report, STAT.

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BYO Restaurant Review: Russet

BYOB Philly

When it comes to eating, passion isn’t important. Most restaurants are in existence to give a specific audience food they already know and love. Whether it’s Pho or Taco Pastor or Pasta Carbonara, it’s all about comfort food, and passionate creativity in the kitchen is often a disadvantage.

When it comes to dining, though, passion can change an average experience into something very special. This kind of experience doesn’t just happen, it is born out of the crazy dreams of a kitchen-hardened chef. Such restaurants exist as an idea long before the walls are painted or the ovens are turned on. It is often no more than a book of scrawled recipes that look like the rantings of a feverish hobo.

From the moment you step inside, Russet is clearly such a place. The dining room is lovely, but is only a satellite to the kitchen; it feels like you are being sucked toward a dense element, like a little brown bunny into a gravity well.  And you are very happy bunny.

At Russet, passion and creativity comes across on the plate in many wondrous ways. As a former chef –and a cookbook author–I must admit I am very jaded when it comes to restaurant food. In plate after plate, Russet surprised and delighted me. Chef Andrew Wood speaks in a language of flavors I had never experienced before. It was magical.

He is the type of chef who thinks about food the way political junkies think about elections: no detail is too small to obsess over. When there is sepia pasta on the menu, the kitchen crew is massaging the ink out of the cuttlefish sacks. The baker mills her own grains for the bread. The vegetables are grown on the restaurants one acre of farmland. Charcuterie is crafted in-house.

The Farm-to-table ethos is often a marketing concept, it’s played the fuck out. But that is not what is happening here. This is the real deal, a decade in the making. Critics have pointed out the simplicity of the food, but that falls far short of the mark.

Saying the dishes at Russet are simple is the same as pointing out that Botticelli was pretty good at crosshatching. It’s technically correct, but also total bullshit.  This is a chef who aims for simplicity, and gets there with the most complex and nuanced of dishes. Imaging molecular gastronomy using the tools and techniques of the 19th Century; If Escoffier and Ferran Adria had a love child, it would be  Chef Andrew Wood. I also know he will hate that comparison, but it fits.

It’s difficult to outline dishes, as the menu changes radically every week. However, for a wonderfully lyrical description of the dishes, no one does it better than Craig Leban.

The bones, meanwhile, are steeped into the foundation of a bouillabaisse turned black with cuttlefish ink, then tossed with orecchiette for one of the more stunning pastas, whose earthy, almost truffle-y sea-flavored gravy is offset by pristine ivory scallops and the sweet tang of slow-cooked Jersey tomato fondue.

Honestly, holy shit. The guy can  turn a phrase.

Bottom line: this is a restaurant that should be on everyone’s short list.

 

 

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